No Waves, a Buckled Tail and 6th Place
Ah. Golden West at PCH, 6:00 a.m. Nobody else around. We were the first to show up for the contest. There’s something about being at the beach just before the sun comes up. I’m not much of a morning person, but get me out to the water early and it charges me for the rest of the day.

The anticipated swell didn’t show as I’d hoped it would. A few lines were rolling through every now and again, but they were very inconsistent and unpredictable. For the most part it was 1′ shore break. Bummer. The hot topic of conversation among the surf parents was whether the swell would hit, when it would hit, and how big it would be. The local paper is calling for 8′ – 12′. Surfline is saying it will only be 4′ – 6′ and some other forecast says 6′ – 8′. I’m going to say it will be in that latter range, mostly because the energy from the storm hasn’t had enough distance to organize into good pulses, even though the storm sat in our swell window for a decent amount of time.
Kyle didn’t do so well today. On his first wave, he managed to buckle the tail of his board. He wasn’t able to do too much with any wave he caught after that because maneuvering on a short board is all in the tail. Unfortunately, that left him with a 6th place in his heat (dead last) which meant no advancement. We were done for the day. Poor kid, he’s bummed about his board (as am I – that means we’ve gotta buy a new one), but once he blew off his frustration, he was cool. Mom & dad will pick up the cost for a new stick, and there will be more contests. He’s high enough in the point standing to have earned an invitation to the final event next month, so we’ll get ‘em next time. October is usually a good swell month for SoCal.






Teach Kyle how to put a fin back on. It’s not that hard if you’ve got lot’s of time and patience. I vote get the new board but see if ya can’t get the guy to start learning some ding repair.
Nothing beats dawn patrol
Robert.